Poland - Churches of all Ages and World War II Memorials
by Günther Eichhorn |
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I spent a couple of nights in Warsaw, visited the observatory in Warsaw and walking through the city. Warsaw was almost completely destroyed during World War II. It has been beautifully rebuilt. In the old city there was only one wall left standing, this wall is incorporated in the rebuilt house. There is a large park in the center of the city. The observatory that I was visiting is located in that park. This was also where I encountered the peacock, which was showing off his glorious feathers. Warsaw has of course a statue of Copernicus, just like so many other cities in Poland.
After the visit to Warsaw I flew to Lithuania for three days. After I got back I continued on my trip through Poland, heading east to Bialowieza. The nature reserve in Bialowieza is the place where the European Bison was re-introduced into the wild. I took a walking tour of part of the reserve. Unfortunately we didn't see wild bison. But we did see a lot of bird life, including large woodpeckers and storks. The Nature Reserve is completely left to its own, no trees are felled. They are not even removed when they fall down on their own, Nature is completely on its own in this reserve.
I stayed overnight in a hotel next to the park. This area has a lot of very beautiful old wooden houses, many of them with storks nests on their chimneys. Don't ask me what they do in the winter, since these nests are perennial.
The next day I drove north-east towards the northern border of Poland with Russia. That is where the "Wolfschanze" (Wolf's Lair) is located. More on that is on the page about World War II Reminders. This is where Hitler spent most of his last three years. It is close to the border with Russia. I stayed in a hotel right next to the immense bunkers in the Wolfschanze.
From there I headed west to Baltic Sea to Frombork. On the way there I visited a very nice baroque church from 1687 in Swieta.
Frombork is famous for Nicolaus Copernicus. This is where Copernicus spent the second half of his life and conducted most of his observations and research. There is a beautiful Gothic brick cathedral on the hill overlooking Frombork. It was built from 1329 to 1388.
From Frombork I headed south-west to Malbork, a huge castle/fortress. Started in 1276, it is definitely worth a visit, a very impressive sight.
Next I headed south through Poland towards the Czech Republic. On the way I saw several Romanesque and Gothic churches. The oldest were from the 12th century. The one that I liked best was the one in Kruszwica.
Just north of the Czech Republic are the Sudeten Mountains. A small town, Paczków is worth visiting there. It has one of the most complete medieval fortifications and an interesting fortress-church. This type of medieval church was built with dual purposes, as a church as well as a defensive fortress. You can see that immediately when you look at that church. Just a little further down the road is Klodzko, a town that was first mentioned in 981, with a Gothic bridge from 1390 and a fortress on the hill. From there I crossed over into the Czech Republic near Kudowa-Zdroj.
After the conference in Prague I came back to Poland to visit Auschwitz and Birkenau, the Nazi concentration camps, gruesome reminders of the Nazi Holocaust (see World War II Reminders).
Altogether it was a very interesting visit. I saw enough churches to
last me a lifetime
(or so
I thought, see Russia).
Traveling by car in Poland is no problem. You can find hotels anywhere. You can get money from money machines with your regular bank card anywhere in Poland.
Traffic in the cities is usually quite heavy. Outside the cities, it is not bad. The roads are very good, which may be the reason why people tend to speed a lot. I tried to take smaller roads as much as possible. It turned out that even the smaller roads are generally very good. The biggest nuisance are the ubiquitous tiny cars. They are descendants of the Fiat 500, a very small Italian car with a 2-cylinder 500 cc engine. They are being built in Poland and they are everywhere. They are very slow, which together with the general speeding of the larger cars creates hairy situations sometimes. This large number of small cars was very obviously different from the other central European countries where cars were similar in size to other western European countries.
As in other central European countries there are lots of birds around. Storks can be seen everywhere and lots of birds of prey are around. In one area there were a lot of mistletoe on trees. So many in fact that some of the trees were dying, presumably from having too many of these parasites to carry. Most of Poland is gently rolling hills. In the southern parts are the Karkonoski mountains (Riesengebirge in German, which means Giants Mountains), the Sudeten mountains, and other mountain ranges all the way east to the Tatrzanski Mountains (the High Tatra on the border between Poland and Slovakia).
It seems as if the Polish economy is catching up with western Europe. The feeling that I had was that is was just a little behind the Czech Republic and Hungary, but not much at all.
All pictures are © Günther Eichhorn
![]() Krzyztopór Castle in Ujazd (142k) |
![]() Modern Church somewhere south of Warsaw. (96k) |
![]() An old wooden church in across the street from the modern church. What a difference. (193k) |
![]() Baranów Sandomierski Castle. (107k) |
![]() Statue in the park of Baranów Sandomierski Castle. (139k) |
![]() Street in the old town of Warsaw. (142k) |
![]() Fortification around the old town in Warsaw. (114k) |
![]() House with the only remnant from pre-World War II facade parts in the old city. (164k) |
![]() Warsaw Parliament (106k) |
![]() Atlas-like figure on one of the buildings in the newer parts of town. Such figures were on many buildings. (123k) |
![]() Atlas-like figure, this one is female. (117k) |
![]() Copernicus statue in Warsaw. (99k) |
![]() Warsaw Observatory in the Lazienki park. (101k) |
![]() Scene in the Lazienki park in Warsaw. (137k) |
![]() Statue in the Lazienki park in Warsaw. (145k) |
![]() Peacock strutting his stuff in the Lazienki park in Warsaw. (209k) |
![]() Closeup of Peacock. (186k) |
![]() Closeup of Peacock. (97k) |
![]() Closeup of Peacock. (141k) |
![]() Red Squirrel in the Lazienki park in Warsaw. (138k) |
![]() Swan in the Lazienki park (114k) |
![]() Bialowieza National Park. (195k) |
![]() Bialowieza National Park. (190k) |
![]() A stork in the Bialowieza National Park. (107k) |
![]() Fisherman on a lake in next to the Bialowieza national park. (94k) |
![]() Woodpecker are ubiquitous in this park. Here are signs of woodpeckers in a dead tree. (138k) |
![]() Woodpeckers collect pine cones and wedge them in the bark of a tree so they can extract the pine nuts. (172k) |
![]() European Bison. I didn't see them in the wild, only in the animal park next to the nature reserve. (114k) |
![]() A house with a populated storks nest on the chimney in Bialowieza near the national park. (173k) |
![]() A beautiful wooden house in Bialowieza. (146k) |
![]() Orthodox church in Hajnówka in eastern Poland near Bialowieza. (67k) |
![]() Farm in northern Poland with the obligatory storks nest. (107k) |
![]() Farmhouse in northern Poland. The overhanging roof holds a hoist to lift hay up into the building. (141k) |
![]() Baroque Church in Svieta dating from 1687. (92k) |
![]() Copernicus Cathedral in Frombork on the Baltic Sea. (130k) |
![]() Copernicus statue in Frombork. (131k) |
![]() Copernicus Oak in Frombork. (188k) |
![]() Malbork Castle. (108k) |
![]() Malbork Castle (158k) |
![]() Romanesque Church in Kruszwica from the 12th century. (156k) |
![]() Sudeten mountains on the border to the Czech Republic. (133k) |
![]() Medieval fortification around Paczków. (202k) |
![]() Fortress Church in Paczków. (111k) |
![]() View of Klodzko from the fortress on the hill. (157k) |
![]() Fortress above Klodzko with World War II guns. (191k) |
![]() Gothic Bridge from 1390 in Klodzko. (152k) |
![]() Country road lined with trees. (174k) |
![]() This is one of these tiny cars that are everywhere in Poland, slowing down traffic. (129k) |
![]() Tree with mistletoe parasites. (224k) |
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![]() This red fox was walking around between the ruins of the crematoriums in the concentration camp in Birkenau. For more on Auschwitz and Birkenau see the page with the reminders of the Nazi Holocaust. (129k) |
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