Ecuador - Galápagos Islands

by Günther Eichhorn


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Wildlife in the Galápagos is awesome, stunning, or whatever other superlative you can come up with, it really is! Visiting these islands is an experience of a lifetime!

The Galápagos Islands are located on the equator, about 1000 km (600 miles) west of Ecuador in the Pacific. There are a dozen or so major islands, and lost of small ones. The largest one is Isla Isabela, the main island for the tourists is Isla Santa Cruz, with Puerto Ayora the main tourist center. Five of the islands are inhabited, the others are protected. There are about 20,000 people living in the Galápagos, about half of them in Puerto Ayora.

The Galápagos were discovered in 1535 by Tomás de Berlenga, the Bishop of Panama. They were used by pirates and fishermen. These visitors slaughtered the large tortoises by the thousands for food. Many of the subspecies are extinct now. One of them, the subspecies from Isla Pinta, has only one surviving member, Lonesome George, who is in the Darwin Research Center in Puerto Ayora. The Darwin Station has a breeding program for the Galápagos tortoises to re-introduce them into the wild. Tortoises of different subspecies are raised till they are 3-4 years old and then repatriated to the island where the subspecies belongs.

All the Galápagos islands are protected in the Galápagos National Park. The entrance fee for the park is $100.00. This sounds a bit high at first, but when you consider that there are only about 50,000 to 60,000 visitors per year, the resulting income of $5-6 million is not nearly enough to maintain such a huge park. I was quite happy to pay this small fee for seeing an extraordinary nature reserve. Visits to the islands are restricted to the official visitor sites. All boats must have an official park guide on board. Hopefully this will help to maintain the islands and their flora and fauna.

One of the most serious problems that the wildlife has is the introduction of foreign species. Domestic animals such as cats, rats, and goats create havoc on these islands. Some small successes have been made in eradicating introduced species, but only very few. One very annoying introduction are the mosquitoes. The islands used to be free of biting insects. Now the mosquitoes even carry Dengue Fever in the Galápagos.

Being on the equator, the weather in the Galápagos islands is nice year-round. Temperatures are around 30° C (80° F). There is the occasional tropical rain shower, but most of the time it is sunny. The water is relatively warm in most places (around 25° C, 80° F), but there are very cold currents around in some places. These cold currents have temperatures of around 15° C, 60° F, which makes for very cold scuba diving.

During my trip I was scuba diving for 7 days, and then visited four islands on land (Isla Plazas, Isla Floreana, Isla Seymore Norte, and Isla Bartolomé) in addition to Isla Santa Cruz.

Isla Bartolomé is a fairly young volcano. It has only the very earliest pioneer plants that colonize freshly formed volcanoes. Around Bartolomé you can see the Galápagos Penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus). They are the smallest of the warm weather penguins. They are only about 40 to 45 cm (16 to 18 inches) tall and weigh only 2 kg (5 pounds). They are found on several of the Galápagos Islands, but most of them are on Fernandina and Isabela Island. On Isabela Island are the only penguins in the northern hemisphere. These penguins are endangered, there are only about 800 breeding pairs left. Near Isla Bartolomé is Cousins Rock, a small white island. It is white from sea bird guano, and has a great diving spot. This is where I saw the sea horses.

Isla Santa María (mostly called Floreana) is one of the inhabited islands. We saw mostly cultivated land on our short drive around. You can see plenty of birds. some of the rock formations were quite interesting. Altogether I didn't have enough time to see much on that island.

Isla Plazas has nesting sea birds, a colony of sea lions (Zalophus californianus wollebacki, a subspecies of the California sea lion), and a large colony of land iguanas (Conolophus subcristatus), as well as marine iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus). The iguanas are quite interesting looking creatures.

Isla Seymore Norte was the most interesting, with a colony of blue footed boobies (Sula nebouxii), masked boobies (Sula dactylatra), great frigate birds (Fregata minor), and magnificent frigate birds (Fregata magnificens). The males of the two species of frigate birds are nearly indistinguishable. The male great frigate birds have a green iridescent sheen on their black back feathers, while the magnificent frigate bird shines purple. The blue footed boobies and the frigate birds had mating season, so we could watch the courtship dance of the boobies and the courtship display of the frigate birds. It was impressive to say the least.

Isla Santa Cruz is one of the islands that has wild tortoises (Geochelone elephantopus). There is a nature reserve for the tortoises, but it is much easier to see them on a private farm, Rancho Primicias, next to the tortoise reserve. I hired a cab for $20. That included the tour around the Rancho and a walk through the lava tube nearby. The largest tortoise that I saw was over 1.5 m (5 ft) long, and over 150 years old. These tortoises are amazing creatures.

The major part of my visit was dedicated to scuba diving. Scuba diving in the Galápagos is, without a doubt, the most mind blowing experience in the Galápagos! This was the best scuba diving that I have done so far. Swimming among a school of 10-20 sharks is awesome. If you behave right, sharks don't attack scuba divers, so I wasn't worried. One time when one of the sharks swam right at me though, I retreated a bit to give him way    :-).

There are not too many corals there, but the variety of fish is immense. Besides the sharks (scalloped hammerhead sharks (Sphyrna lewini) and white tipped reef sharks, Triaenodon obesus), we saw several different kinds or rays, moray eels, all kinds of reef fish, sea horses, and the ever-present sea lions playing around us. Besides the fish, the starfish are really interesting. The cushion sea star, and chocolate chip sea star and the blue sea stars are quite spectacular in their colors. Other fish of note were baracudas, trumpet fish, stone fish and puffer fish.

I didn't see dolphins while diving, but we saw lots of them while driving to the dive sites and back. We also saw a school of short finned pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhyncus) playing around our boat for a while. A school of manta rays feeding of the surface was quite spectacular. Seeing them jump out of the water is quite a sight. Another impressive sight are the sea turtles. The largest that we saw was about 6 feet long, a huge creature.

The day trips for diving go to different islands. The boat trip takes between 45 min and 2.5 hours. The longest trip that I took was a trip to Floreana, the shortest was one to Gordon Rocks.

I had a new digital underwater camera. Having the viewing screen in the back of the camera finally allows me to see what I am aiming at. Unfortunately I can't focus my eyes that close anymore. Reading glasses in the dive mask are out of the question, so I have to figure out something else. I hope that one of the flat reading lenses may work, I'll try that next time. Unfortunately I had a problem with the case leaking. The moisture condensed on the front window, which blurred a lot of images. Fortunately it didn't damage the camera.

From my experiences during this trip I have a few recommendations if you want to visit the Galápagos:

1. If you plan to do both scuba diving and land visits, please do yourself a favor and do the land visits first. The land visits are very interesting, but they are completely eclipsed by the spectacular scuba diving, they seem ho-hum after diving. If you do the land visits first, they are much more captivating.

2. For scuba diving you have two options, live-aboard or land based. I stayed land based, and I liked it very much. I like to have a solid bed. The diving was so spectacular on land based trips, that a live-aboard tour isn't really necessary, unless you want to go to the outer islands Darwin and Wolf. The diving there is very challenging and only for really experienced divers. I would have been in over my head if I had tried that. Even the diving on day trips from Santa Cruz is quite challenging due to very strong and very cold current, certainly not for beginners.

3. For the land visits on the other hand I would suggest a live-aboard cruise. The day trips from Santa Cruz don't let you see very much of the islands. I can imagine that you can experience a lot more during a cruise.

4. To get there, you can fly either through Quito or through Guayaquil. Staying overnight in Quito can be a headache (literally, because of the altitude). You will probably sleep pretty badly because of the altitude. On the other hand, Quito is certainly worth a visit of 2-3 days. If you don't want to visit, it is better to fly through Guayaquil.

There are quite a few hotels in Puerto Ayora, so it would probably be OK to just go there and arrange everything when you get there. Arranging scuba diving on a day-by-day basis is no problem, there are several scuba diving operators. The same goes for day trips to other islands. A live-aboard tour however, should probably be arranged in advance.

Altogether, the trip to the Galápagos was a trip of a lifetime. I can really most strongly recommend a visit there. It is amazing!


Quito and surroundings

Ecuador

Amazon Rainforest

All pictures are © Günther Eichhorn

The Islands

Ecuador 0495 My first view of the Galápagos Islands on approach to Isla Baltra (I believe it is Isla Isabela). (258k) Ecuador 0499 Isla Baltra with the airport in the upper left corner. (360k) Ecuador 1200 Sea birds over Isla Enderby (near Floreana) (487k) Ecuador 1205 One of the small islands off Isla Santa Cruz. (430k) Ecuador 1226 A dormant volcano on Isla Santa Maria (also called Floreana). (408k)
Ecuador 1225 A stone carved head on Floreana. It was reportedly carved by pirates who used these islands in the 18th and 19th century. (951k) Ecuador 1314 The volcano of Isla Bartolomé with the sparse pioneer vegetation. (540k) Ecuador 1321 Lava flow on Isla Bartolomé. (1018k) Ecuador 1325 Lava tube on Isla Bartolomé. (855k) Ecuador 1910 A much larger lava tube on Santa Cruz. It is up to 20m (65') high and about 400m (1300') long. You can walk through the tube (crawl in one place). (589k)
Ecuador 1329 View from the volcano on Isla Bartolomé. It looks like a view of Mars. (682k) Ecuador 1335 View from Isla Bartolomé towards Isla Santiago. (417k) Ecuador 1322 View from Isla Bartolomé with the white Cousins Rock right of center. (363k) Ecuador 1380 Isla Daphne Mayor. (356k) Ecuador 0545 Isla Daphne Menor. (450k)
Ecuador 0547 View of Isla Santa Cruz from the north. (388k) Ecuador 0762 I believe this was somewhere around Isla Bartolomé. (366k) Ecuador 0761 A rocky outcrop of volcanic lava with some cacti. (493k) Ecuador 1003 Volcanic lava beach on Santa Cruz. The marine iguanas (see below) blend right in with that color. (610k) Ecuador 0767 That looks like it could be fun too, even though I prefer a solid bed at night. (429k)
Ecuador 0882 Column basalts on Isla Baltra. Column basalts form when certain kinds of lava cool and fracture in the typical columnar forms. (573k) Ecuador 0884 Column basalts on Isla Baltra. (612k) Ecuador 0972 Rocas Gordon (Gordons Rocks). That was where we hit the really cold and strong currents (15°C, 60°F) while scuba diving. (490k) Ecuador 0580 Fishermen in Puerto Ayora handling their catch. There are lots of sea birds around that area, waiting to get the discards from these fish. (543k) Ecuador 1209 Harbor scene in Floreana. Notice the sea lions sleeping on the boat. (454k)
Ecuador 1265 Evening scene near Floreana. (445k) Ecuador 1267 Sunset between Floreana and Santa Cruz. (276k)


Wildlife on the Islands

Ecuador 1319 Banana cactus (Brachycereus nesioticus) on Isla Bartolomé. Named after the color and shape of its branches. It is one of the early colonizers of new volcanoes. (555k) Ecuador 1233 Plant on Floreana. (529k) Ecuador 1241 Spanish Moss (Tillandsia usneoides), a relative of the pineapple. (500k) Ecuador 1435 Large cactus (Opuntia echios) on Isla Plazas. (602k) Ecuador 1953 Opuntia cactus flowers. (379k)
Ecuador 1498 Galapagos Carpet Weed (Sesuvium edmondstonei) on Isla Plazas. A large part of this island was covered with this plant. Sesuvium turns orange/red when there is a water shortage, otherwise it is green. (778k) Ecuador 1437 Galapagos Carpet Weed plants on Isla Plazas. (880k) Ecuador 1500 Galapagos Carpet Weed flowers. (429k) Ecuador 1950 Flowering tree. (324k) Ecuador 0548 Red Mangroves (Rhizophora mangle). I did not see many areas with mangroves. (988k)
Ecuador 0575 Moth. (301k) Ecuador 0577 Green Hawkmoth (Eumorpha labruscae). (331k) Ecuador 1972 Hawk Moth (Hyles lineata florilega). Large, day active moth, collecting honey. (406k) Ecuador 1971 Large, day active moth, collecting honey. You can see the long proboscis, collecting nectar. (372k) Ecuador 0574 A hunting gecko. (276k)
Ecuador 1961 Galápagos lava lizard (Microlophus albemarlensis). (364k) Ecuador 1967 Lava lizards, ready to fight. (681k) Ecuador 1956 Lava lizard in a fight. They weren't hurt, just holding on to each other and wrestling. (614k) Ecuador 1931 Female or immature Medium Ground Finch (Geospiza fuliginosa). (303k) Ecuador 1936 Galápagos Mockingbird (Nesomimus parvulus). (441k)
Ecuador 1235 Female or immature Small Ground Finch (Geospiza fortis). (481k) Ecuador 1248 Galápagos Flycatcher (Myiarchus magnirostris). (273k) Ecuador 1249 Female or immature Small Ground Finch (Geospiza fortis). (250k) Ecuador 0982 Male Small Ground Finch (Geospiza fortis). (537k) Ecuador 1255 Warbler Finch (Certhidea olivacea). (461k)
Ecuador 1360 Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis). (440k) Ecuador 1361 Brown pelican. (429k) Ecuador 1727 Brown pelican. (319k) Ecuador 0513 Pelican in slow flight. (208k) Ecuador 1372 Galápagos hawk (Buteo galapagoensis). (261k)
Ecuador 1451 Nesting Swallow-Tailed Gull (Creagrus furcatus). They keep their beaks open to dissipate heat by panting, just like dogs. (327k) Ecuador 1492 Swallow-Tailed Gull with chick. (553k) Ecuador 1648 Ruddy Ternstone (Arenaria interpres). (407k) Ecuador 1088 American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus galapagensis). (514k) Ecuador 1020 Lava heron (Butorides sundevalli). (586k)
Ecuador 1002 Lava heron closeup. (571k) Ecuador 1858 Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias). (333k) Ecuador 0519 Great Blue Heron (juvenile). (607k) Ecuador 0879 Great Blue Heron. (344k) Ecuador 0516 Great Blue Heron closeup. (350k)
Ecuador 1468 Masked Boobie (Sula dactylatra). (249k) Ecuador 1806 Blue Footed Boobies (Sula nebouxii). (529k) Ecuador 1722 Blue Footed Boobie. (373k) Ecuador 1603 Closeup of a Blue Footed Boobie. (286k) Ecuador 1605 Closeup of a Blue Footed Boobie. (256k)
Ecuador 1611 Closeup of a Blue Footed Boobie. (293k) Ecuador 1833 Closeup of a Blue Footed Boobie. (399k) Ecuador 1720 They are really bright blue. (340k) Ecuador 1582 Pair of Blue Footed Boobies in courtship. (583k) Ecuador 1629 Courtship display. (477k)
Ecuador 1797 Courtship display. (528k) Ecuador 1752 Courtship dance. (756k) Ecuador 1753 Courtship dance. (685k) Ecuador 1659 Courtship dance. (458k) Ecuador 1694 Group of Blue Footed Boobies displaying. (437k)
Ecuador 1695 Group of Blue Footed Boobies displaying. (476k) Ecuador 1608 For this one his courtship dance worked. (480k) Ecuador 1811 Frigate Bird colony. (784k) Ecuador 1673 Frigate Bird colony with displaying males. (768k) Ecuador 1161 Frigate Birds colony with males in mating display on Isla Enderby near Floreana. (783k)
Ecuador 1803 Frigate Bird nest with male and chick. (541k) Ecuador 1771 Male Frigate Bird displaying his throat pouch. (469k) Ecuador 1820 Male Great Frigate Bird (Fregata minor). (616k) Ecuador 1765 Male Frigate Bird displaying his throat pouch. (471k) Ecuador 1758 Male Frigate Bird displaying his throat pouch. (403k)
Ecuador 1776 Closeup of male Frigate Bird displaying his throat pouch. (324k) Ecuador 0657 Juvenile Magnificent Frigate Bird (Fregata magnificens) in flight. (143k) Ecuador 1741 Male Frigate Bird in flight with mating display. (159k) Ecuador 1514 A colony of Land Iguanas (Conolophus subcristatus) seeking shade under a cactus. (856k) Ecuador 1432 Land Iguana. (644k)
Ecuador 1804 Land Iguana. (530k) Ecuador 1412 Land Iguana. (501k) Ecuador 1421 Land Iguana. (402k) Ecuador 1407 Land Iguana. (357k) Ecuador 1642 Land Iguana. (507k)
Ecuador 1646 Land Iguana. (501k) Ecuador 1431 Land Iguana feeding on a cactus. (578k) Ecuador 1061 Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus). They were hard to see on the black lava rocks. (431k) Ecuador 1028 Marine Iguana. (812k) Ecuador 0985 Marine Iguana close up. (523k)
Ecuador 0989 Marine Iguana close up. (575k) Ecuador 1039 Marine Iguana close up. (522k) Ecuador 1475 Marine Iguanas. According to our guide, they were not mating, they keep close to help with regulating their body temperature. (387k) Ecuador 1880 Galápagos Tortoise (Geochelone elephantopus). (540k) Ecuador 1886 Galápagos Tortoise. (798k)
Ecuador 1889 Galápagos Tortoise. (623k) Ecuador 1890 Galápagos Tortoise. (457k) Ecuador 1895 Galápagos Tortoise. (755k) Ecuador 1919 Galápagos Tortoise. (439k) Ecuador 1927 Galápagos Tortoise. (488k)
Ecuador 1872 Tracks from a sea turtle that went ashore to lay eggs and then returned to the sea. (664k)


A fishing blue footed Boobie

Ecuador 9999 Composite of the following shots of a diving bluefooted boobie (183k) Ecuador 1344 Diving bluefooted boobie. (297k) Ecuador 1345 Diving bluefooted boobie. (425k) Ecuador 1346 Diving bluefooted boobie. (427k) Ecuador 1347 Diving bluefooted boobie. (352k)
Ecuador 1348 Diving bluefooted boobie. (323k) Ecuador 1349 Diving bluefooted boobie. (307k)


Marine Wildlife

Ecuador 1069 Sally Lightfoot Crabs (Grapsus grapsus). These crabs are everywhere on the shores. (462k) Ecuador 1683 A crab on a high perch. (221k) Ecuador 1529 The darker one is presumably a freshly molted crab whose shell has yet to harden. (695k) Ecuador 1547 Beautifully colored Sally Lightfoot Crab. (521k) Ecuador 1848 Sally Lightfoot Crab close up. (382k)
Ecuador 1852 Sally Lightfoot Crab close up. (358k) Ecuador 1207 Sea lions (Zalophus californianus wollebacki) on shore. (639k) Ecuador 0959 Sea lion climbing ashore. I saw them in the most unlikely place, wondering how they got there. (582k) Ecuador 1524 Sea lion colony. (522k) Ecuador 0757 Swimming sea lion. (393k)
Ecuador 1551 Baby sea lion. (464k) Ecuador 1392 Relieving an itch. (454k) Ecuador 1556 Those eyes! (327k) Ecuador 1382 Amore! (354k) Ecuador 1563 Dolphins playing in the bow wave of our boat. (332k)
Ecuador 0648 Dolphins. (357k) Ecuador 0526 A school of pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhyncus). (577k) Ecuador 0586 Pilot whales. (368k) Ecuador 0614 Pilot whales. (565k) Ecuador 0609 Pilot whale closeup. (440k)
Ecuador 0635 Manta rays (Manta birostris) feeding near the surface. (385k) Ecuador 0620 Manta ray. (301k) Ecuador 0644 Manta rays. (381k) Ecuador 0754 Galápagos penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus). (446k) Ecuador 0779 Galápagos penguins. (655k)
Ecuador 0780 Galápagos penguins. (489k) Ecuador 0799 Galápagos penguins (407k) Ecuador 0945 Fishing sea birds. (433k)


Underwater Life

Ecuador 0565 Colorful underwater scene. (1454k) Ecuador 1131 Orange Cup Coral (Tubastrea coccinea). (1435k) Ecuador 0828 Sea anemones. (1302k) Ecuador 0855 Orange Cup Coral (Tubastrea coccinea). (947k) Ecuador 0923 Sea fan. (1334k)
Ecuador 1152 Brain coral and Blacktip Cardinalfish (Apogon atradorsatus). (1181k) Ecuador 1153 Sea cucumber (Isostichopus fuscus). (1127k) Ecuador 0852 Sea cucumber. (928k) Ecuador 0846 White Sea Urchin (Tripneustes depressus). (1664k) Ecuador 0831 Pencil-spined Sea Urchin (Eucidaris thouarsii). (1279k)
Ecuador 1139 Pencil-spined Sea Urchin. (1014k) Ecuador 0925 Pencil-spined Sea Urchin. (1032k) Ecuador 0861 Panamic Cushion Sea Star (Pentaceraster cumingi), left, and Chocolate chip sea star (Nidurellia armata), right. (1644k) Ecuador 0845 Panamic Cushion Sea Star. (971k) Ecuador 0905 Panamic Cushion Sea Star. (1427k)
Ecuador 0907 Panamic Cushion Sea Star. (1491k) Ecuador 0556 Panamic Cushion Sea Star. (1416k) Ecuador 0887 Blue sea star (Phataria unifascialis). (1788k) Ecuador 0733 Blue sea star. (1453k) Ecuador 0922 Blue sea star. (1269k)
Ecuador 0888 Blacktip Cardinalfish. (1713k) Ecuador 1117 Inside a school of Pacific Creolefish (Paranthias colonus). (1032k) Ecuador 0878 School of Blue-and-Gold Snapper (Lutjanus viridis) with Pacific Creolefish (Paranthias colonus) in foreground. (1167k) Ecuador 0901 School of Razor Surgeonfish (Prionurus laticlavius). (1322k) Ecuador 0867 School of Pelican Baracuda (Sphyraena idiastes). (973k)
Ecuador 1119 Two King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer). (1501k) Ecuador 1121 Three Mexican Hogfish (Bodianus diplotaenia), young terminal phase (center) and initial phase (below and right). (1216k) Ecuador 0702 Two Razor Surgeonfish (Prionurus laticlavius). (835k) Ecuador 0853 Galápagos Ringtail Damselfish (Stegastes beebei). (959k) Ecuador 0726 Guineafowl Pufferfish (Arothron meleagris), spotted phase (center), with Black Wrasse around (Halichoeres adustus). (1172k)
Ecuador 1126 Guineafowl Pufferfish (Arothron meleagris), yellow phase. (916k) Ecuador 1101 Starry Grouper (Epinephelus labriformis). (1361k) Ecuador 0723 Starry Grouper (Epinephelus labriformis). (1558k) Ecuador 0715 King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer). (626k) Ecuador 1132 Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus). (533k)
Ecuador 1113 Trumpetfish (Aulostomus chinensis). (574k) Ecuador 1137 Giant Damselfish (Microspathodon dorsalis) (1377k) Ecuador 0690 King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer). (976k) Ecuador 1145 King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer). (1041k) Ecuador 0688 Stone Scorpionfish (Scorpaena plumieri mystes) (1520k)
Ecuador 0924 Giant Hawkfish (Cirrhitus rivulatus). (1424k) Ecuador 0834 Pacific Seahorse (Hippocampus ingens). (781k) Ecuador 0729 Diamond Stingray (Dasyatis brevis). (775k) Ecuador 0571 Zebra Moray Eel (Gymnomuraena zebra). (1369k) Ecuador 0737 Panamic Green Moray Eel (Gymnothorax castaneus). (1297k)
Ecuador 0569 Panamic Green Moray Eel (Gymnothorax castaneus). (1162k) Ecuador 1129 Closeup of Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas). (1251k) Ecuador 0864 Huge Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas). This one was about 1.8m (6 ft) long. (645k) Ecuador 0714 Diving Sea Lion (Zalophus californianus wollebacki) (599k) Ecuador 0886 Sea Lion playing with scuba divers. (716k)
Ecuador 0912 Group of Galápagos sharks (Carcharhinus galapagensis). (647k) Ecuador 0703 Two White-Tipped Reef Sharks (Triaenodon obesus). (588k) Ecuador 0900 White-Tipped Reef Shark. (560k) Ecuador 0705 White-Tipped Reef Shark. (887k) Ecuador 0708 White-Tipped Reef Shark. (652k)
Ecuador 0709 White-Tipped Reef Shark. (875k) Ecuador 1148 White-Tipped Reef Shark in school of fish. (893k) Ecuador 0553 Large Scalloped Hammerhead Shark (Sphyrna lewini). (621k)


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All pictures are © Günther Eichhorn


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